Inga, I know you have a small FAQ and there have been attempts, but i'm going full-force at this one to make it complete. please don't be angry!
To make it easier on people, i'm separating this into a few different posts so you don't have to hunt/search as much. This will be the materials portion.Ok, I am going to try to create the most complete pinky modification FAQ that I can (because we need it, ne?
), but I need your help! I will continually add to this list/FAQ as questions arise and as people add tips or contribute. This way, I hope, we will have all the questions in one place that everyone knows, and all the answers compiled in one place. Kind of like a first-stop for how-tos and questions.
I beg the customizers of this forum to check up on this thread to help the newcomers with customizing and answer questions. I am pleading with newcomers to check this FAQ before asking questions.
We don’t need every tidbit of information all at once, because I will add to this first post as more tips arise. Hopefully, this will eventually appear on the main site so that you can ‘jump’ to a specific section. As it grows, I will add to a table of contents at the top so you can just scroll through to the section you want. The table will be basic, just assume that everything under the section will tell you: what it is/uses/tips/where to buy/cost.
For now, I will organize by:
*Number for main section (1, 2, 3)
*Number-Number for sub-section (1.1, 1.2, 1.3)
*Letter for sub-sub section ((1.1)A, (1.1)B, (1.1)C) essentially, you would go to section 1.1, then find ‘A,’ ‘B,’ or ‘C’ etc respectively.
*Lower-case letter for sub-sub-sub section (a,b,c)
*Lower-case double-letter consecutive for sub-sub-sub-sub section (aa, ab, ac or if in section B: ba, bb, bc, bd and so on and so forth).
So let’s get started!!
Please read through the sections you like to get a good feel for how I’ve set this up and so that you don’t ask something that already has been explained.
All prices of materials are in USD.
Any links to stores that sell these supplies will be useful, please post it or PM me and I will add it to the bottom of this post. TABLE OF CONTENTS:
1. Materials to Modify with
1.1 Sculpey
A. Types of Sculpey
a. Original Sculpey
b. Premo! Sculpey
c. Super Sculpey Flex
d. Super Sculpey
e. Super Sculpey Firm
aa. Comparison Photos
1.2 Epoxy
A. Types of Epoxy
a. Epoxy Putty Quick-Type
b. Epoxy Putty Smooth-Type
1.3 Mr Clay
2. Tools to Modify With
A-V
1. Materials to Modify with: <I will try to give a description of each material, what it does and how it behaves, as well as some basic tips to better narrow down which material best suits your needs or your style>.
1.1 Sculpey – Sculpey is a bake/boil-to-harden material (usually at 275 degrees for 15 minutes for every ½”) that is pliable and easy to use. It comes in many, many different colors (depending on what grade/type you buy) and is used by enthusiasts and professionals alike. You can buy it at most art and craft stores, and is rather inexpensive. Sculpey suggests that you use a water-based (acrylic) paint on their materials, or a water-based primer and then whatever paint you like.
Note: I have baked Pinky parts in the oven with Sculpey and they get ‘bendy.’ I highly suggest, if you are baking a piece like a top, use tin foil to hold the top in place so any flexibility that the Pinky gains in the oven will not hinder the Sculpey. Even use this for legs! These parts need support, no matter what kind.
A. Types of Sculpey:a. Original Sculpey – Simplest form of this line of molding materials.
In Package/Cost: Comes in larger packages (1.74 lbs & 8lbs). Not sure of cost, I believe it’s under $10 for the smaller package.
In Action: I personally have not used this form of Sculpey. When researching materials to modify/make figures with it was stated to get a better kind of Sculpey than Original, so I have not purchased/tried it. My understanding is that it is not the highest quality and good for children’s/simple crafts, but not as good for the more serious sculptor/modifier. If anyone has tried this with good luck, (and tried other types as well) let me know how it measures up. (But, since the higher-grade Sculpey is so cheap for so much, I don’t see why the better one wouldn’t be the preference). I believe this comes in a few basic colors. Sculpey (any type) does not dry out, so you can leave it out anywhere and not have to worry.
b. Premo!Sculpey – A bit nicer than Original with a new purpose: to stay a bit pliable after baking, and to be chip resistant.
In Package/Cost: It’s a nice material that comes in small packages (2 oz. bars and 1lb blocks). I work with the 2oz bars in white, which cost about $2.50-$3.50 each, depending on the store.
In Action: True to its word, it stays a touch pliable after baking, and is very smooth to touch-ups with sandpaper or exacto knife. When you open the package it is a bit stiff, work it with your fingers and it becomes VERY pliable. Be careful, though, because after working it and putting it on your pinky it can ‘smudge’ because it is so smooth/pliable. Supposedly when rolled into a sheet and baked it’s still quite pliable, but I haven’t tried it as it’s a bit more difficult to roll than other Sculpey types (tends to stick a lot more, so I can’t roll it as thin and I’m too lazy to get the proper release materials). Sculpey (any type) does not dry out, so you can leave it out anywhere and not have to worry.
I suggest that after you get your main ‘blob’ shape to let it sit for a day so that it regains some firmness. After it is firm and you have your main shape, if you want to add or change a small part, work some Premo up well in your hand, and you can actually smooth it on and smooth it into the existing Premo. Very nice, useful feature!!
c. Sulpey Super Flex/Bake & Bend – Hm, I’m actually looking through the Sculpey site to see if there’s anything that might be worth a go and this is very intriguing! You can use it like normal Sculpey, but after baking it reacts like rubber! This may be very good to use for molding parts as it will retain flexibility. I have never tried it, so I don’t know if it’s too flexible for the material our girls are made of. I think this material sounds like something great to use for things you need a bit more give with; like Pinky headphones, headbands, purse straps, etc.. If anyone gets to try this before me, let me know how it goes!
d. Super Sculpey – High-grade all-purpose sculpting material. Many artists use this flesh-tone material for models and modifications. It is a higher-quality professional grade Sculpey that is much stronger than the Original and less prone to breakage or crumbling.
In Package/Cost: comes in 1lb ($8-$10), 8lb, or 24lb boxes.
In Action: It remains a bit firmer after working than Premo does, so you can do details with it. Again, I suggest to work the clay before use! I haven’t used this one as much, I just obtained it recently along with Firm and I’ve been too entertained with Firm to start with this one. I will soon, and I’ll update when I do. Should be in the next week. Sculpey (any type) does not dry out, so you can leave it out anywhere and not have to worry.
e. Super Sculpey Firm – A great material with more firmness than Super Sculpey in pre-baked form.
In Package/Cost: 1lb box is about $10-$13.
In Action: Regrettably, it isn’t easy to ‘smooth’ out the material as it is with Super or Premo, so work very well before using. It tends to ‘crack/separate’ if you try to push/pull it, and if you rub your finger over it the Sculpey doesn’t move much, but tends to rub a small layer off (like when you erase something with an eraser, those bits left over). Short, working rubs will serve you much better than the long, pulling, soft rubs that work with Premo. I’ve had a lot of fun rolling out this material into rather thin sheets for Pinky skirts and whatnot as it doesn’t stick/need a release agent and I can simply roll it out and peel the sheet off of my workspace. But it has almost no give at all once baked, and tends to crumble a bit easier with thin layers only. I really enjoy this because it stays firm while carving out hair details and doesn’t stick to the Pinky’s bodies (which can be both a good and bad thing!). Sculpey (any type) does not dry out, so you can leave it out anywhere and not have to worry.
Sculpey Test Comparisons:Break when unkneaded
Note how the Sculpey breaks when unkneaded. The firm breaks in chunks, while the Super is almost smooth.Break/Bend when kneaded/worked
See the difference? Now they are all more pliable, though the firm still begins to split. I'd say that the Super was the most bendy.When rolled into a sheet
Again, note how the firm holds it own, while the Premo conforms to the pen beneath it more, while the Super is stretchier but with less conformity.When smudged (after working). The first picture is just the smudge, the second is it lifted from the table with no help.
Here you can really see what I was talking about when I mentioned Premo was good for smoothing, while the Firm was definitely not. You can also see the Premo is a bit more adhesive. Finished Products (sorry don't have one for Super yet, will soon)
The Premo is much more smooth, and didn't need much sanding. Like butter to the touch, though it scratches easier than the Firm. Firm is also rather smooth as well.1.2 Epoxy Putty – 2-part time-curing material that is a favorite among Japanese customizers. Cures hard as a rock! Is found mostly in hobby and specialty stores.
A. Types of Epoxy (if anyone likes a brand other than Tamiya, please let me know! I use them almost exclusively, so it would be useful to know if other brands behaved differently. I have some Mr Hobby Epoxy but haven’t used it yet…)
a. Epoxy-Putty Quick-Type – (I use Tamiya exclusively, so when I describe it, I am describing characteristics of Tamiya brand). Quick-type cures (hardens fully) within about 4 hours to rock-hardness, which is all the time one seems to really need.
In Package/Cost: About $3.15-$7 for .25g ( I get mine from
www.e2046.com when I order my paints, they are the cheapest I’ve seen, though they are in China. Many hobby stores should carry this, in almost all countries. Look online if you can’t find it at your local store).
In Action: Much more difficult to work with than Sculpey, in my opinion. With Epoxy it’s not so much the time constraint, it’s more of how much time you have with what stage the Epoxy is at. First you are given 2 color ‘sticks’ of epoxy: white and tan. Cut equal parts of each, peel off the plastic sheet, and mix them together by kneading with your fingers until the color is even. It will be sticky! Many people use water, lotion, or Vaseline to keep it from sticking. I personally hate using Vaseline. I found it doesn’t dry much at all, and if you need to mix more Epoxy in or adhere it to itself it will not do it if it even has the smallest coat of Vaseline. This has caused me to try to add to a hair piece and have the added piece break off at the slightest added pressure due to the fact that the Epoxy didn’t cure as one solid unit when the Vaseline was between it even in a small amount. So use Vaseline if you want to, but be aware that it will not stick to other Epoxy (which is sometimes a good thing! But mostly not so much…). Lotion is my non-stick preference for my hands. Some people use gloves, but I don’t like that as you really need to use your fingers with nothing between them. The package says it may cause a rash, and if it does contact your physician (though everyone here on the forum that has used it against their skin/fingers hasn’t had a reaction). When you initially mix the pieces it will be sticky, and it’s a good time to get a general shape. It will progressively harden more as time runs out and it begins to cure, and each ‘stage’ or hardness it goes through are good for certain purposes in customizing. One of the major pluses of Epoxy, in my opinion, is that you can work in layers. You can wait for something to cure, then go back and add more to it (say you have a collar over a sweater. You can make the collar, let it cure, then put the sweater on top. Great for making details then adding more later so the details won’t be disturbed. Epoxy smoothes onto itself well, and is good for filling in cracks and crevices on semi-finished work.
b. Epoxy Putty Smooth Type – I’ve only used this once, but it’s just about the same thing as Quick-Type except it takes longer to cure. Stick colors are White and a Pale green.
In Package/Cost: Same as Quick-Type.
In Action: I thought the longer curing time would be a plus, but it turned out to be rather irritating (to confirm this, my roommate also tried it after thinking she needed more time than Quick-Type gave her and found herself with the same opinion as me). I only suggest this kind if you’re new to Epoxy and you’re really nervous about the 4-hour time limit.
1.3 Mr. Clay – Released by Gunze Sangyo (same people who bring us our lovely girls) it is a paper-mache type material that dries when left out and is lightweight. I used this briefly to see what it was all about, and when you open the package it’s cold and wet. You can almost ‘tear’ it and see the paper particles. You can pretty much mush it however you like, but you can’t achieve fine details with it. It takes many hours to dry, and trying to sand it is just not fun. You will never get the smooth finish you want on Pinkys with this product. What it is good for is a base for a full-on pinky custom (so, use it for the main structure instead of armature wire) as it is hard and lightweight. Or (though I haven’t tried it) you can use it as a base for something that needs support, such as a long skirt, hat, etc.. Mr. Clay doesn't seem to stick to pinkys in any way, though, even when dry.
2. Tools to Modify With
above are all tools i use on almost everything i do. i probably couldn't survive without them, and they are as follows:
A - Toothpick
The one pictured is not a good example because it's best to use a fine-pointed toothpick so you can cut through the soft epoxy or sculpey with more ease
.
Tip: toothpicks are good for hacking your sculpey/epoxy away from your pinky body because they won't cut the body. So if you have something that you want to make, like a collar of a shirt but the collar is too long, simply press the toothpick until it hits pinky where you want to cut the shirt, and take the material away. that way your pinky isn't all hacked up! best to use a fine-pointed toothpick so you can cut through the soft epoxy or sculpey with more ease.
B - Click-up Blade
Good for hacking through hardened putty/sculpey/mr.clay
C - Exacto Knife
Before i got all my other tools, i only used an exacto knife. it was tough, but i managed. i'd say this is the MOST important tool. you can cut, slice, scrape, and form anything you want to with a blade like this. you can switch the blades, of course, so you can choose a blade that suits you. i like how precise this blade is, however, and i will always stand by it. a good thing to do with an exacto is cutting into a pinky to hack away material you don't need, like cutting shoes to form toes:
(Cost: about $5-$8 depending on the brand and how many blades you get with it. you can buy refill blades for very cheap, as well, i think i got 35 blades for $4.50USD)
D - Small Blade that serves the same purpose as 'C.' Great when you don't want to cut too far in or for shallow details.
F - A nifty little tool that i don't know the name of. it's a small triangle that's GREAT for picking out excess material and refining details when materials are still soft. also good for refining cracks that have an abrupt 'V' shape. (Cost: usually $2-$5USD)
G - Good for the same things a 'F', but not to that extreme. great for redefining edges and cracks to a softer extent. (Cost: usually $2-$5USD)
H - This is my miracle tool. it's good for sooo many things, i can't even begin to tell you. you can use it to make holes, scrape away material, enhance details, scoring, etc.. useful to anyone that can find its many benefits. (Cost: about $1.95USD)
E - Tweezers. this tool is great for holding onto tiny bits of sandpaper, attaching small parts (especially when you glue something), getting into small spaces, and all the other things that tweezers are good for. these ones are especially good because of the bend in them and wide body for gripping. (Cost: about $3-$5USD)
I - 'Neko no Te' or 'Cat's Hands', good for holding onto things that you will be painting or that you don't want to lay down flat. (Cost: $5USD for 3)
J - another tool i can't name that has a slightly curved U-shape. great for smoothing curves and smoothing on more material! (Cost: usually $2-$5USD)
K - A larger version of 'G.' (Cost: usually $2-$5USD)
(L, M, N & O are materials listed in the above section : sculpey, clay, epoxy, Mr. Clay)
P - Nail polish remover for removing paint. make sure it's 100% acetone or it won't remove it so well. i LOVE this brand, it doesn't smell bad, and paint practically runs away from it! ($1.95USD at Walgreens Pharmacy)
Q - Artist / Masking tape. great to mask areas you don't want paint or putty to get on. Artist tape is especially nice because it doesn't seem to stick with such volatility as regular tapes do.
R - Sandpaper of various grades
Tip: lower the number, the rougher. higher the number, the softer. don't go too rough and use several grades to work up from rough to soft so you get a nice, smooth finish.
S - Q-tip. great for removing paint from hard-to-reach areas.
T - Rubber glove to keep those chemicals off your hands!
U - Hand Lotion to keep hands from drying
W - Cutting mat. a wonder, really. so i can cut and slice against the table all i want and not damage it. i wouldn't be able to function without it, honestly. (i used to use hard cardboard, but since i got this mat life's a dream! usually cheap, too... i think $8-$10USD for an 8 1/2 x 11" or a bit larger)
V - Petroleum jelly / vaseline as a release agent/to keep pinky parts from sticking to your materials
Not Pictured but essential:
Old Cotton Sock for removing paint
Waxed Paper for keeping putty from sticking
Tin Foil to cover thinner bits of Sculpey if your piece varies in width (forget who this tip was originally from, i know it was recent, though! forgive me!!!
)
Final Note:[/b] I have not used anything other than these materials that were suggested by customizers and sculptors alike in their how-tos. If you know of materials that are better suited for these purposes, please let me know! These materials work very well for me when I customize, so I have not searched for anything new.
Author
I still don't think I would attempt it anytime soon yet I am seriously considering going full throttle on a pullip custom.... 
no one is letting me know... 
even if you and another person attempted the same design with the same instructions both would turn out differently so I don't think you have a heck of a lot to worry about personally 
Great stuff!
. 
this is great info. Just what i have been looking for . THanks itachi. I hope there is more to come.
oh no i fogot to put a vid on youtube ! 
